DIGITAL READ OUT 3 Axis - DRO LATHE

(2007)

JOB DONE MAN!!

Installing the scales means to plan the best way to mount them, to get best precision available keeping far away axial errors which can cost precision on final task.

I have thought for few days how to install these scales and the following photo will show you how I solved this big problem!!!

Z1   axis:

for the main Z1 axe I use a 742 mm overall length  ( 600 mm travel)  etched scales with 5 um precision.

The scale must be mounted with two clamps on the sides

check out few steps to make the 0.01 precise blocks...

cutting parts with the slitting saw is one of my favorite tasks, and from today I can do it better since I have installed a fully working coolant system and digital Surface meters per minute / rpm tachulator.

coolant and right speed of tool are the best things to check to get right working conditions.!

few steps later I am drilling the 5 mm holes into my two blocks

my poor lathe is disassembled to allow me to mount the X scale right end, which ends up just too close the motor!!

after few measurement, I am ready to drill and tap the M5 right end.... the sieg cast is pretty close to BUTTER consistency !!

yoyo, the X scale is mounted. I have covered with some aluminum tape the whole body of the scale to prevent scratches...

now is time to re-assemble the whole lathe.... and to start making the piece which will link the saddle to the axis sensor.

few cuts with the band saw, and a gross 110 * 80 mm plate is obtained.

4 cuts on the mill are required to make it square...

then 4 holes at precise spacing are drilled, using the friendly already mounted DRO on the mil..

right, the plate is screwed onto the scale sensor, and the two marks are made to drill and tap the saddle bits..

I need to remove the saddle from the lathe bedways to install the X scale, and I will drill the Z1 top clamp bits in the next  step..

so, now let's start removing the saddle....

X  axis:

for the main X axe I use a 292 mm overall length  ( 150 mm travel)  etched scales with 5 um precision.

I need to machine 2 ANGULAR shaped blocks that will hold in place the small scale...

lets get a block from the main piece of alu, which is 48* 48 mm....

I am cutting only the bit I need out..

once on the mill I use the octomill facemill to make flat and squared all the block surfaces.

As you can see I am machining with the coolant ON, this makes things easier and prevent tool wear.. but:

MAKE A MESS EVERYWHERE!!!!

anyway, next step is to slot the unwanted material using a HSCo HITACHI rough mill 16mm dia, at 50 meters per minute.

this photos shows you the final pass made with a 20mm slotmill dormer HSS, at 80 mpm

the block is shaped as I want, now it is time to drill and tap it...

the task require to drill and tap the cross slide too...

check out the height of the mill head !!!

to make a precise drill I have places the end mill onto the quill and then I have positioned the block, getting the precise point of where the thread will be made.

then,,,,   let's drill this butter made sieg cast iron cross slide table..

few minutes later, I am mounting the two clamps, on the granite surface table, to get best precision.

next step is to drill and tap two M3 holes in the saddle, to hold the scale sensor.

voila! the scale is mounted....

but, I want to protect the scale with my usual alu tape...

so , let's mask it..

this is a different view of the scale...

and a rear view..

check out how I have made room to layout the scale wire!! yes, it is inside in the saddle leg!! I have driller a 8.5 mm hole through!

I had to machine also the scale sensor, to make room for the bedways!!!! check out the detail in the red circle!!

last but not least I had to modify the original sieg motor cover!

I think the work is well made. I am satisfied..but I still need to install the third topslide scale. I will wait until I have completed the new topslide, made by steel, stronger, longer, and smoother!

check out a big view of the lath with the new DRO