CUSTOM HELICOPTER HEADSET
(2005 to 2008)
JOB SUPER DONE , MAN
I had a pair of DAVID CLARK, many years ago. David clark are the best helicopter headset in circuit quality terms, but they are really heavy and not so comfortable. I remember how many times I lost the headset during high G turns..!! that is for the heavy unbalanced weight of the headset!!
I had also a pair of peltor , just passive headset that I used to fly in environment where radio com where not requested, and I felt the peltor cups the best cups to eliminate noise and also in terms of comfort.
After that, I used my helmet for many years that has a fantastic circuit and the same microphone as david clark.
I am still happy about my helmet but now I had request to use headset to fly passengers and this is why I made this my customized pair.
The project could not be the best I ever do because I took parts from each best brand on the planet.
What I mean is that I took the following components (all tested during these years..)
1) the best microphone (the one on david clark hd10-66 ) AKA Electrovoice M AIC 101 (5ohm)
2) the best speakers (series on gallet helmet) AKA SAGEM 300ohm (45mm dia)
3) the best dual impedance system (series on gallet helmet) AKA Gallet dual impedance circuit
4) the best microphone boom (series on some peltor) AKA ground mechanic boom ,peltor
5) the best passive headset AKA Peltor OPTIME III - twin cup
moral of the story, I am just creating a good combine of the best components on the market out there plus the best passive headset, which is the OPTIME III body !!, to take the best in terms of comfort, clear communications, reliability, and weight.
! cool thought !
3 Agust 2006:
Creating a microphone adapter to mount the new Electrovoice M AIC 101 onto a peltor microphone boom.
practically: cutting a piece of hard plastic....
making it square with wanted dimensions (19,50 x 12 x 8 mm) (really small-!!!!)
then drilling the center hole - 4mm (then one for the boom)
and to 2.5 mm holes for the small screws
few countersink actions for the edges and for the screws holes and the front side is done
then turn it on the vice and make a small slot for the cables that comes from the boom internal hole
some manual sandpaper on the edges and the part is done, the microphone is mounted on the 4mm steel boom and seems made from the factory (peltor or electrovoice ?? :) )
note the original adapter (photo below) , from CGF gallet factory....that is worst than my one !!!
my one seems an "extension" of the microphone, GALLET one seems a stupid plastic added part!!!
29 August 2006:
Today I have done the bulk of the job, preparing all the holes for the cables into the ear cups. and making a replica of the original steel microphone boom holder.... (with acetal rod...)
here I am turning the part and I am threading M6 the lower end..
here, after few dremel tools touches by hand... I am threading M3 and M4 to hold the part in place..
and these two are the original (steel - top, acetal - bottom ) and the replica bits...
After I have done it I discovered that the weight of the steel one is 3 grams, and the acetal one is 1 gram.... :( I am gonna mount the steel one because I trust more a thread into the steel that a thread into the plastic!! and also the weight difference is not relevant as I thought...
Anyway, I mounted the original one making two holes and wit to M3 screws....
and the I made all the holes for the cables onto the outer shell (black part)
if you are not understanding why there are two cups, one into the other one....some technical infos for you man: These headsets have a twin cup, a gray one is inside an outer black one and in between them there is a layer of foam, this is to keep out any noise , more that any other headset on the planet earth.
The result of this technology is an high rate of passive noise reduction, that makes the Peltor H10 twin cup , or OPTIME III, the best headset in the world!!
(break ended..)
now the two cups are ready to be sanded with a 320 grit sandpaper, to promote the adhesion of the plastic two pack primer (left cup is sanded, right is still original...to do!)
that is all for today. I masked the parts that must not be painted and now the headsets are going to a friend workshop that is quite good to spray things.
He is gonna spray for me the twopack primer and base coat...
the paint layout has been made by hand then transferred A/D with a scanner and then edited with photoshippa for mac....
the work has been printed and placed on the headset cup to get a real view of what is gonna be once finished...
the first masking is completed, and the whole painting procedure is starting now...
my airbrush is a HANSA 381 with dual nozzle set 0,2 and 0,4 I personally use 0.4 nozzle for this sort of task. this picture shows the result of the first two airbrush actions, (black and blue )
more work into the spray area (cardboard boxes), and the draw is getting shape!!
few masking and few spraying more.... and the cups are ready to be painted with freehand paintbrush for the small details...
a well sprayed two pack top coat, clear, automotive products (as the colors, and base), and the whole project is almost completed (note that I have sprayed a mobile phone and two mouses also!!!)
job done!!!!! (I have spend about on hour to install the components, and to wire the headset....
job done!!! I am really pleased with both technology (quality), and look (exterior) of the heaset!!
the moral of the project is that a good workshop man must be able to do the complete production path to convert dreams into reality. From the first idea, to the first sketches, to the machining on the lathe and mill, coming up to a paint job, and then do the final electronic circuit making.
this is my spirit: think, plan, create, use : transform dreams into reality!
dave
